Gift of Rafael Jes

D.A.W.: Uniforms Since 1891, A. Jacobs & Sons Baltimore, MD. Made to Measure: Sack Coat: A.Jacobs & Sons Est.1891, 107 W. Fayette St., Baltimore 1, Md. :J.A. Whitare,4/53,40738, Your measure Retained

This Army issue sack coat was worn by Rafael Jesús González for lectures and other such "formal" events at Laney College, in front of th San Francisco Federal Building, USF and other locations throughout the Bay Area during the time of the Vietnam Conflict. (For usual, everyday protest, he wore his denim jacket, 2000.80.1.) The jacket is made of a tan colored wool, and was standard military issue. The jacket has a patch pocket on both the proper left and right front breast that closes with a gold button bearing the United States Shield. Below the patch pockets are welt pockets, one on the proper right and one on the proper left that close with flaps and buttons. The gold buttons are consistant in style, circular with and eagle and a shield, and are of two different sizes. There are four large buttons along center front and there are six smaller buttons: one on each pocket and one on each shoulder epaulette. On the proper left front lapel is a black colored pin with a white peace symbol. Above the proper left front breast pocket is an orange colored wooden crayon pin. The crayon pin represents the group "Artists Against the War." Below the crayon pin, on the proper left breast pocket flap are two other pins. The pin closest to center front is a royal blue color and reads in white lettering, "FREE SPEECH F.S.M.". The other pin is slightly larger than the other, is light blue in color and has blue lettering that reads "FUGUE YOU". On the proper left sleeve is an appliqued heart of red velveteen. The heart is depicted to symbolize feeling, virtue, the center of courage and love above all. On the back of the jacket is an appliqued moth of dark brown, black, tan, red and royal blue velveteen. There are two black beads for the eyes and there is embroidery in various shades of brown for the antennae and in the wings. It also appears that the velveteen was resist dyed to create an orange color along the embroidery lines on the wings. The moth is a symbolic repersentation of rebirth,renewal, regeneration, and resurection. The jacket has a tan wool braid around the cuff of the jacket. The jacket sleeves and front are lined. There is an inner welt pocket on the proper right front. Above the inner pocket are three black colored labels stitched together with gold machine embroidered lettering that reads"D.A.W." Below the welt pocket is a black label that has machine embroidered lettering in yellow and white that reads: Uniforms SInce 1891, A. Jacobs & Sons, Baltimore, MD. Made to Measure. Inside the pocket is a pink paper label that reads in black lettering:"Sack Coat". Also inside the pocket is a white label made by the manufacturer that reads in black lettering" A. Jacobs & Sons: Est. 1891: 107 W. Fayette St., Baltimore 1, Md. Your Measure Retained" And in blue ink by hand reads"J.A. Whitarre: 4/53:40738". The applique and embroidery was done by the donor, Rafael Jesús González. This coat was given to González by a friend, not one that he had worn while in the service. K. Becvar, per donor, 4/18/03: This coat was worn at UC Berkeley, not USF. The denim jacket 2000.80.1 also described was not worn for everyday protest, it was worn for civil disobedience and for ritual. The velveteen wings of the appliqued moth on the back of the jacket was not resist dyed, the orange color was created by applying chlorine bleach with a brush.

Used: Rafael Jesús González | Laney College | Federal Building | University of San Francisco | Anti-war protest | Free Speach Movement

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