2002.44.1

Robe is made from embroidered peach color silk plain weave. A two-inch wide border of embroidered black silk satin is at all edges except the cuffs. Embroidery motifs in peach color and black areas are primarily butterflies, chrysanthemums, and other flowers, rendered in various shades of white, yellow, green, blue, coral color, magenta, and brown. Robe features dolman sleeves and wide cuffs made from intricately embroidered white silk satin, showing male and female figures in courtyards and gardens, amongst trees and tranquil pools. Robe is lined with green silk damask woven in a diaper pattern of diamonds with dots in the centers, and is held closed at the center front with five decorated, spherical brass buttons and loops. Collar is mandarin style, with an overlay of the black satin border curving around behind the nape of the neck. An aqua color brocade ribbon with floral designs in peach, yellow, and green is stitched parallel to the black satin border, about one inch away. In Chinese embroidery, the butterfly is often associated with great age, because of the similarity between the character for butterfly ("hu t'ieh") and the character for 'length of days' ("t'ieh"). This kind of 'visual rebus' is common in Chinese embroidery. Also, the chrysanthemum is associated with autumn and with friendship (see file for reference).

Used: Kathryn Keller Randall Larson

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