c. 1885-1900
18.75 in WIDE
(47.62 cm WIDE)
Museum Purchase

This pair of calzoneras is made of blue fulled wool and black wool. The blue fulled wool composes the larger pasrt of the and top of the trousers, the black wool is appliqued down the outside of either leg and at the very deep cuff with red top stitching by a machine; all of these edges feature a trefoil decoration. The legs are completely open down the sides; they are fastened (on either side) with a series of fifteen (15) hand made button holes. There are a series of eleven (11) silver colored metal ball and chain style buttons. (They are fed through round, hand stitched eyelets on the back side of the leg, so that the ball part of the buttons would show in the front. The eyelets at the bottom of either leg remain empty.) The calzoneras are completely line in a cream colored fabric, with a woven satin stripe plaid. (The lining is pieced, most notably on the proper left leg.) The trousers fasten in the front with a four button fly; each metal button is marked "San Francisco Merchant Tailor.". There are scalloped pockets at the front, one on either side, top stitched in red machine stitching; the proper left pocket is lined with something like a heavy cotton muslin, the proper right pocket is lined with a cotton twill. There is a set of clasps (fitting with a hood) on either side, below the pockets; they are made of a silver colored metal. The fronts are stylized heart-shapes featuring a trefoil design; the backs are seashell-shaped and are ribbed, similar to a scallop shell, or an opened folding fan. The clasps on the proper right side have a chain attached; there is none on the proper left side. The seat has been re-enforced with black wool, top stitched in red machine stitching. In the back, at the waist, on the proper right side, a "belt loop" made of wool dress hem tape was added. On the proper left side, the other added belt loop has come unstitched at the bottom. A triangle of lining fabric shows at the center waist, back. The trousers also have a back belt, with a metal buck;e marked "Paris."

These calzoneras are not as well made as the others (2009.17.1). The stitching on the button holes is not as fine. The quality of the fulled wool on the other trousers (2009.17.1) is better, more supple, with a deeper nap.

Used: horseback riding | Ranching | Californio

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